It's been a beautiful day, clear, blue skies and calm seas, but the minute you turn off the main road towards Anoghi, the further you climb that winding road up, the more dominant the eeriness that overwhelms this rugged landscape.  The lush green Ithaki seems a world away.  The isolation of Ithakis' upper planes is reinforced by the rocky terrain and sudden chill of the high mountain, blue skies turn a little grey and the sudden cliff drop roadside feels a little dangerous, but the views across the islands floating along the horizon are breathtaking.

There are no houses along the uphill stretch and out of nowhere appears a man and his dog.

After you pass the turn to the Kathara Monastery on the left, on the apex of Ithakis highlands, it's not far before you reach the mountain village of Anoghi.  Stone houses and awesome stone formations decorate the roadside. It's a different Ithaki in the mountains, an Ithaki that has changed little over the decades.  The sense of local history is very strong here.  It was in this mountain village most took refuge from pillaging pirates centuries ago. 

It's not until you reach the other side of Anoghi that blue skies and lush views dominate the views again.